Buen Camino ~ Joanna Crawford
Nothing can prepare you for the Camino Way, either physically or emotionally. A thousand years of pilgrims had walked the same route that I was walking. It was so inspiring and thought-provoking, without all the walking equipment we now have.
My adventures began in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, in the Basque area of France. My first experience was of a bunk room in an albergue. A manic experience of registration, shopping, unpacking, showering in 3 showers for 21 people, and sharing a pilgrims' supper with 21 strangers! We all had to share our aspirations for the upcoming Camino experience. Mine was "personal challenge and adventure". I met an 89-year-old Australian walking the Saint James Camino for the sixth time, so how hard can it be?
The following day I found out! Eight hours walking uphill over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles Monastery, which hosted 200 pilgrim walkers from 34 different countries. We were greeted, shown our very basic bunk room and showers, and immediately attended a Pilgrim Mass, where we were blessed for our journey ahead. We were all ages and religions, all with the same goal. We were woken at 6am by the monks chanting. It was a magical experience.
So it began, my 281-mile walk. We walked between 22 and 25 miles a day, following a blue and yellow shell showing us the way. I was sharing my experience with Taller Paula (6 foot tall, ten years younger than me, who had completed the Camino twice before). I knew her through walking the Cotswold Way over the last two years. She shared my vision of staying in basic bunk room accommodation in albergues (which we booked in advance, and I definitely recommend this, as accommodation was often fully booked). Walking through amazing scenery, slowly but surely each day we focused on the beauty, peace and tranquillity, leaving behind all the stresses and strains of home life and enjoying each minute. Every morning we were greeted by a cuckoo encouraging us forward. The first week was amazing, just living in the moment and loving it, free from mobiles and Wi-Fi. Just walking, talking and listening to various pilgrims and villagers along the way. Not a Starbucks or McDonald's in sight. Instead, welcoming cafés with bocadillo rolls, which sustained us until our pilgrims' supper.
The second week, however, was much more of a challenge for me.
The weather changed from sunshine to thunder and hailstorms. I struggled with continuous wet feet and wet boots, leading to blisters and a fungal toe infection. But I was determined to complete my Camino. On my worst day, for the last two hours I was shuffling along at one mile per hour. I sat down, took my boots off, put my Crocs on and started singing:
One more step along the world I go, one more step along the world I go.From the old things to the new, keep me travelling along with you. And it's from the old I travel to the new, keep me travelling along with you.
Round the corners of the world I turn, more and more about the world I learn.All the new things that I see you'll be looking at along with me.As I travel through the bad and good, keep me travelling the way I should.
Where I see no way to go you'll be telling me the way, I know.
Give me courage when the world is rough, keep me loving though the world is tough.Leap and sing in all I do, keep me travelling along with you.
You are older than the world can be, you are younger than the life in me.Ever old and ever new. Keep me travelling along with you.
From that moment I knew Jesus was walking with me, keeping me safe, inspired and determined.
So, with a helpful pharmacist and kind and supportive fellow walkers, I continued and completed my pilgrimage to Santiago. I received my Compostela and was privileged to attend, with 1,500 other pilgrims who completed their Camino that day, a Pilgrims' Mass and blessing at the Cathedral.
What did I learn from my pilgrim experience? There is no wrong way or right way to complete the Camino. There is just your way.
These are my final thoughts from my experience, which I will share with you:
I am not just walking toward Santiago. I am walking beyond my limits, beyond my doubts. I am not climbing hills, I am rising in spirit. I am growing while walking. Shedding what no longer serves. Becoming lighter. Truer. More whole. Every step forward is a step into becoming.....?